There are only a handful of places I’ve visited where the pace of life is as slow as Komiža. Located on the western coast of Vis, the island is the furthest of over 1,000 islands sprinkled along Croatia’s Adriatic coast. A traditional fishing village, Komiža heralds a picturesque setting on a bay at the foothills of the Hum mountain. The road leading to Komiža winds along the cliffs, zig zagging down the mountain side. It takes me a while to grasp where I have been transported to from the ferry port in Vis – stone town houses twist uphill, narrow Mediterranean streets weave around the town and the shoreline is indented with pebble beaches and secluded coves.
On my first day on the island, I make my way down to the oldest part of the town – Selo. Built further away from the port to provide greater shelter from possible pirate attacks in the 19th century, this part of Komiža showcases the real antiquity of the fishing village. No one seems to be in a hurry to get anywhere – the few locals that I meet as I roam the old town seem to be immersed in deep conversation, only stopping to smile. There is a raggedness to the narrow passageways lined with traditional old stone cottages, many of which are deserted.
Early evening I’m dining on fresh calamari (some of the best I’ve had in a long time) on the harbourside promenade busy with sunset-watchers. As the sky blurs into a pink and purple shimmer, I order a glass of Vugava (white wine) and savour the moment. Its magical and seems to be somewhat of a secret – thankfully this sleepy fishing village does not appear to be on the mass travel circuit of the million visitors that stream into Dubrovnik each summer.
For much of its modern history, the island of Vis was closed off to foreigners. Because of the island’s strategic location as the furthermost main island in the Adriatic, Vis has a lengthy military past and history of colonisation. One of the oldest towns in Croatia, the first inhabitants can be traced back to the ancient Illyrians and the Greek colony, Issa dating back to the 4th century B.C. In more recent times, Austria, France, United Kingdom and Italy have all left their marks on the island, before it was ceded to Yugoslavia. As the Second World War ended, Vis, then part of Yugoslavia was used as one of the Yugoslav army’s main naval bases, until it was abandoned in the early 1990s. Today, some of the underground tunnels, caves, bunkers and submarine hideouts are open to the public and numerous tour operators run military tours on the island.
Komiža is the embodiment of the word “Pomalo” (meaning slowly, or little by little). I heard it several times as a greeting by the locals or as they passed each other on the street. “It is our way of life,” explains my waiter, “to slow down,” she continues. She places a plate of grilled sardines on my table and reassures me that I have come to the perfect place to Pomalo.
Hard to describe but I instantly feel it.
A couple of days after my arrival and I allow Pomalo to completely wash over me. Bound under the spell of the Dalmatian sun, my days are dictated by the weather and I find myself enjoying (without any guilt) the pace of life here. Everything seems as though it can wait.
I think I could get used to this life at Vis speed.
I mean this in the best possible way, there isn’t too much to do in Komiža except for exploring new beaches and coves, savouring the freshest seafood and walking through the labyrinth of some of Croatia’s oldest streets. The entire bay of Komiža is filled with small pebbly beaches and here is a selection of my favourite spots:
Gusarica | the largest and busiest beach in the town of Komiža that stretches 150 meters along a small alley of trees. One of the few beaches with changing rooms and toilets and the Manta Diving Centre and Hotel Bisevo is located nearby.
Zanicovo | I stumbled across this small pebbly beach that was only a few steps away from my airbnb. A small pebbly beach surrounded by houses and I only ever seemed to share it with one or two other locals. Two of my favourite restaurants in Komiža are also located here – Konoba Bako and Jastoreza.
Lucica |located close to the town just after the large pier, Lucica is a beautiful pebbly beach and one of the few beaches that has an adjacent beach bar.
Kamenice |the most southern part of Komiža and a 15 minute walk from the town centre, Kamenice beach has the largest beach lounge bar (turned club after dark).
There are myriad of reasons to visit Croatia, but the wine and seafood is compelling enough to bring me back. Small fishing boats haul some of the freshest seafood – lobster, octopus, sea bass and sardines, which are prepared simply in a stew or grilled over coals to let the ingredients speak for themselves. Paired with a glass of the island’s wine – either a white Vugava or red Plavac – perfection.
Konoba Bako | beachside bako specialising in seafood with an amazing terrace overlooking the harbour and tables only inches from the water. Try the Croatian speciality komiška pogača (focaccia stuffed with anchovies).
Konoba Jastoreza | perched on the edge of the Adriatic Sea in a pot house overlooking the sea. I only tried the seafood risotto, which was nothing to write home about, however the restaurant has a reputation of serving some of the best lobster dishes in the village. For those sailing and not staying in Komiža, there is a small canal where boats can enter and anchor underneath the restaurant.
Restaurant and Wine Bar Hum | along the promenade with a large outdoor area and incredible seafood. Try the Calamari made Dalmatian way with Swiss chard – the best calamari I’ve had in a long time. Impeccable service and friendly waiters – I got a glass of wine on the house because the waiter forgot to set cutlery on my table! Wouldn’t mind if that happened more often.
Fabrika | quirky restaurant on the promenade perfect for people watching and serving some of the best breakfast in Komiža.
Konoba Robinzon | casual and laid-back dinner spot in a traditional setting (more locals than tourists). Doesnt offer habour / beach views but food is very reasonably priced and delicious – grilled veal and sardines with sautéed potatoes was a hit.
Konoba Jasmina | cozy, family restaurant with an amazing view overlooking the beach. Only had an appetiser so can’t really comment on the food but the views are enough to warrant a visit.
I have to admit, I knew very little about Croatian wine and having been in Tuscany the week before I arrived in Vis I didn’t know what to expect.
How long has Croatia been making wine?
Well, only for over 2,500 years, with a history dating back to the ancient Greek settlers who started wine production in the islands of Hvar, Vis and Korcula – and possibly earlier with the Illyarians in the Bronze Age. Yep, just a tad bit older than my favourite glass of Cloudy Bay.
While they are little known abroad, Croatian wines are surprisingly good. With over 130 grape varieties and centuries old cellars and vineyards, no wonder it forms a crucial part of the Mediterranean diet. On Vis, much of the island is devoted in producing the fruity-honey flavoured white, Vugava and bold red, Plavac. Some popular wineries to visit include Roki’s, Lipanovic and Poduje.
Roki’s | Nestled in a small village inland in Plisko Polje, Roki’s restaurant and winery was simply amazing and reputed for serving the best peka on Vis. An authentic Croatian dish, peka, which means “under the bell,” is slowly cooked under a cast iron bell covered with wood embers. Lamb, veal, fish or octopus is cooked in the pan with potatoes, carrots, peppers, olive oil, herbs and rice and at least 4 hours notice is needed to prepare the peka.
Where | Plisko Polje, a small village 7 km away from the town of Vis or 12 km from Komiza. Call Roki’s to request for a pick up from either Vis town or Komiza.
Must try | Roki’s is famous for their peka dishes – I went for the octopus peka and it was my favourite meal in Croatia!